If you’re seeing drafts, condensation between panes, sticking frames, water intrusion, or visible rot, replacement is often the better long-term fix. Minor issues like hardware problems or isolated caulking failures can sometimes be repaired—but if the frame or seal is failing, repairs tend to be temporary.

They can, but only if the full system is addressed: glass package, frame quality, air sealing, and correct installation. Drafts often come from gaps around the frame, not just the window itself, so replacement should include insulation and sealing around the opening.

Leaks are often caused by failed flashing, improper waterproofing, or deteriorated siding and trim, not just the window unit. A proper install includes correct flashing integration and a water-managed opening so rain is directed away from the structure instead of into it.

In the Seattle area, performance is heavily influenced by moisture and temperature swings. High-quality double- or triple-pane windows with low-E glass, strong seals, and proper flashing tend to perform best for comfort and energy efficiency. Installation quality matters as much as the window brand.

Sometimes. In Seattle, like many cities, permits are more likely when the opening size changes, a structural header is modified, or work affects egress (bedroom escape requirements) or safety glazing. Straight replacements that keep the same opening may not require a permit, but it’s important to verify upfront so inspections and resale documentation are clean.

Most replacements can be completed in one to two days for a typical home once materials are on site, though larger homes, custom products, and repairs to framing or siding can extend the schedule. Doors are often faster than full-window packages unless there’s rot repair or reframing.

Usually, yes. Many replacements can be done with minimal interior impact, especially when the opening stays the same. If hidden damage is discovered or the opening needs to be reframed, some interior trim or drywall work may be required, but that’s not the norm for straightforward replacements.

It’s common, especially with older homes and long-term moisture exposure. Any damaged framing, sill plates, or sheathing must be repaired before the new unit is installed. When rot repair is required, the scope is documented so you understand what changed and why.

Retrofit inserts keep the existing frame and replace the moving parts and glass; full-frame replacement removes everything down to the rough opening. Full-frame replacement is usually better when there’s rot, poor flashing, or you need maximum performance, but it is more involved.

Yes. Replacement windows and doors can be selected to match your home’s architecture, interior casing, exterior trim profile, and grid patterns. This is especially important for older homes where the wrong window style can look out of place.

Both approaches can work. Whole-home replacement is usually more cost-efficient and gives consistent performance, while phased replacement makes sense when budget is a constraint or certain areas are failing first. A practical plan prioritizes the windows with leaks, rot risk, or severe drafts.

Typically, yes. They improve curb appeal, comfort, energy efficiency, and buyer confidence, especially when the work is properly documented and the installation is clean and consistent.

Cost depends on the number of units, sizes, product line, glass package, and installation complexity. Older homes in Seattle often require additional work—like rot repair, trim rebuilds, or siding integration—which can affect pricing more than the window itself.

There are two parts: the manufacturer warranty for the product (glass, frame, hardware) and the workmanship warranty for installation and sealing. Both matter, because most failures people experience are actually installation-related rather than product defects.